Corner To Corner Hot Water Bottle Cover Tutorial

MATERIALS

Large standard size hot water bottle (34cm tall x 20cm wide)

8ply yarn (I used New Fashion yarn) in any colours you like

3.5mm hook (you need to use a hook .5mm smaller than you normally would as you want the C2C to be nice and dense to keep the heat in)

SIZING

You will be working a rectangle C2C pattern measuring:

No neck pattern - 34 boxes high X 13 boxes wide. 

Neck pattern - 37 boxes X 13 boxes wide.

Remember that sizing can depend on yarn size, hook size and tension.

TIME

This pattern will take a few hours depending on your crochet speed. A great pattern for taking on public transport, to the doctors surgery, to the kids footy training, or a night on the sofa watching TV.

TUTORIAL

This tutorial is not a C2C tutorial. You must already know how to do C2C including increasing and decreasing rows. If you don't know how to do it, check out youtube for video help.

There are a variety of decorative tops you can make on your bottles. You can do a top that stops at the shoulder of the bottle and leaves the neck exposed, or you can do a top that bunches up around the neck.

The following photo shows where you would start working from to do the bottle pattern with the neck:

I forgot to take a photo showing where you would start working from to do the bottle pattern without the neck, but here is a photo showing me working the C2C pattern until its wide enough for the width of the bottle.

PLEASE NOTE: yarn, hooks and tension can differ. It is best to make your pattern and check it against your own hot water bottle. I can write up a tutorial with the recommended yarn and hooks and sizing but yours still might turn out a different size to mine. Check your sizing against your own hot water bottle if you can.

To continue making your neck or no neck pattern, keep increasing your C2C rectangle. Lay your hot water bottle on the fabric to check sizing. If you're not checking against a bottle, just keep increasing to 13 boxes wide and decrease one side and increase the other to 34 or 37 boxes high.

Photos below show how to check sizing for both the neck pattern and no neck pattern:

Once you reach 34 or 37 boxes high (or the number of boxes you need in your tension to reach the top), start decreasing to finish off your rectangle C2C pattern.

FOR THE NO NECK PATTERN...

Photo below show stitch markers where you need to start single crocheting both the front and back fabric together and down the side to the bottom. You need to do this for the left and right sides. You need to leave the gap at the top to get bottle in and out. Please read the JOINING paragraph.

FOR THE NECK PATTERN...

You can skip straight to the joining paragraph.

JOINING
You have two choices with the single crochet joining (remembering that C2C has no right or wrong side, so you can use any side)...

- you can single crochet down the sides and have that as a border

- or you can single crochet down the sides and turn the fabric inside out and have the join on the inside of the cover

Neither of these methods is better than the other - it is just personal preference.

DECORATIVE CORD

Now if you like, you can finish off with a cord to tie around the neck of the cover. You can choose any method of making a cord but the easiest is to chain a long crochet chain between 80-90cm long. Then weave the cord inbetween the boxes (NOT into stitches but inbetween your boxes) and around the neck, then tie a double knot and tie a bow, and you're all done!

Enjoy your new hot water bottle cover.
 

Bali's Best Newborn Hat Pattern

 I found it very hard to find a simple newborn hat pattern that was written for 8ply yarn so I made my own.

This pattern is FREE and you’re most welcome to use it for charity, gifts or selling purposes.

(Written in US terms)

Pattern has been tested but as always feel free to let me know if there are any mistakes.

Finished size (with crab stitch edging) is 14cm from top of hat to bottom edging when laid flat.

Terms:

st - stitch

ss - slip stitch

ch - chain

sc - single crochet

dc - double crochet

Materials:

- 4mm hook

- 8ply yarn (I used 4 Seasons Superwash Merino 8ply, from Spotlight)

Start with your preferred ch4 slip stitch, or magic loop to make a circle. 

R1 - ch3, 11dc into circle, ss into top of beginning ch3. (12dc)

R2 - ch3, 1dc in same space as beginning ch3, 2dc in each st to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3. (24dc).

R3 - ch3, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next st, 2dc in next st**. Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3. (36dc).

R4 - ch3, 1dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next two st**. Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3. (48dc).

R5-11 - ch3, 1dc in each st to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3 (48dc).

R12 - ch1, 1sc in each st to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3 (48sc).

Complete hat with a round of crab stitch edging. If you dont like crab stitch edging, feel free to complete another row of sc and finish off.

Annabelle's Star Flower Square

(Written in US terms)
Pattern has been tested but as always feel free to let me know if there are any mistakes.

Terms:
st - stitch
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - treble (triple) crochet

 

Special instructions:

- DC CLUSTER - 

Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook, leaving last loop of this dc on the hook. Yarn over, insert hook in the same stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook, leaving last loop of this dc on the hook (there are now 3 loops on the hook). Yarn over, pull loop through all 3 loops on hook (this completes one cluster).

- PICOT -

Ch3, ss into the first ch of the ch3 made

With color A

Start with a magic loop, or ch4 and slip stitch to make a circle

R1 - 8sc, ss into first sc

R2 - ch2, 1dc in same space as ch2 (beginning dc cluster made), (ch2, dc cluster in next st) 7 times, ch2, ss into top of beginning dc cluster. {8 dc clusters}

R3 - ch1, sc in same space as ch1, (2sc in next ch2 space, sc in next st) 7 times, 2sc in next ch2 space, ss into beginning sc.

R4 - (ch3, sk 1 st, ss into next st) 11 times, ch3, sk 1 st, ss into same space as beginning ch3.

NOTE: Round 5 is made into round 3 stitches NOT the ch3 spaces you just made on round 4. Do not use the round 4 spaces as you will use them on round 6. You might find it beneficial when completing round 5 to push the ch3's from round 4 to the back so they're out of your way.

R5 - WORKING IN STITCHES ON ROUND 3 - (no chains to start this round) *In the next sc on round 3 (3dc, picot, 3dc), sk over the ss that was already made on round 3, sc in next sc.** Repeat from * to ** 5 times, ss into same space as beginning. Break off yarn.

With color B

Join new color in any ch3 space that you made on round 4.

R6 - (ch4, 2tr, ch2, 3tr) in same space, *3dc in next space, 3dc in next space, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in next space.** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, 3dc in next space, 3dc in next space, ss into top of beginning ch4.

Mallow Square

A picture of a crochet blanket with this square design can be found on Pinterest but the link goes to a sold out blanket on a homewares store called Malvamood in Uruguay. I haven't been able to source any proper pattern for the blanket so I sat down and nutted it out with the help of @cypresstextiles at the end. If anyone does know the source of the original pattern please let me know.

I am naming the square the Mallow Square, as Malva in Spanish translates to Mallow.

(Written in US terms)
Pattern has been tested but as always feel free to let me know if there are any mistakes.

Terms:
st - stitch
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - treble (triple) crochet
dtr - double treble (triple) crochet

Materials
- 8ply yarn and 4mm hook (but can be used with other size yarn and hooks).

With color A
Start with your preferred ch4 slip stitch, or magic loop to make a circle.
R1 - ch3, 11dc into circle, ss into top of beginning ch3. (12dc).
R2 - ch3, 1dc in same st as ch3, *ch1, 2dc in next st**. Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3. (24dc).
R3 - ss across into ch1 space, ch6, *1dc into next ch1 space, ch3**. Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into 3rd chain of beginning ch6.
R4 - ss into ch3 space, ch3, 3dc into that space, ch1, *4dc in next ch3 space, ch1**. Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3.
R5 - ch3, 1dc in next two st, 2dc in next st, *ch1, 1dc in next three st, 2dc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3.
R6 - ch3, 1dc in next three st, 2dc in next st, *ch1, 1dc in next four st, 2dc in next st.** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3.
R7 - ch3, 1dc in next two st, ch1, 1dc in next three st, *ch1, 1dc in next three st, ch1, 1dc in next three st.** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch3. Break off yarn.
With color B
R8 - join new color in any ch1 space with 1sc, *ch3, 1sc in next ch1 space.** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into beginning sc.
R9 - ss in to ch3 space, (ch4, 1tr, 2dtr, ch2, 2dtr, 2tr) into that ch3 space (beginning corner made), *4dc in next ch3 space, 4hdc in next ch3 space, 4sc in next ch3 space, 4hdc in next ch3 space, 4dc in next ch3 space, (2tr, 2dtr, ch2, 2dtr, 2tr) in next ch3 space (normal corner made).** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch4.
R10 - ch2, 1hdc in next three st, *(2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch2 space (corner made), 1hdc in next 28 st.** Repeat from * to ** to end of round. ss into top of beginning ch2.

Modified version of Elisabeth Andree's Summer Blanket Square

Modified version of the Elisabeth Andree Summer Blanket Square

This is a modified version of Elisabeth Andree's japanese square that she used for her summer blanket here:
https://elisabethandree.wordpress.com/tag/summer-blanket/

She said she used a pattern from a Japanese book but I couldn't find a link to it anywhere, so I have written up the pattern myself. It may not be exactly what Elisabeth has done but it's as close as I could get. I also added a around of double crochet at the end because I need to squares to go together with some other squares I'm working on, so it's a bit different than this one:
https://elisabethandree.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/img_2490-scaled1000.jpg
but you can keep the border she used if you wish (I don't include instructions on how to do it though).

YOU WILL NEED:

8ply yarn
4mm hook

Pattern is written in US terms.
Rounds 1, 3 and 4 I have advised you of what you should have at the ends of these rounds to make sure you're on track. E.g. (6 ch5 spaces)

Ch4 and ss into first ch to form a circle
Round 1 - *ch5, ss into circle**, repeat from * to ** five times. (6 ch5 spaces)
Round 2 - sc 4 times in each ch5 space, ss into first sc of the round.
Round 3 - ch3, *2dc in next stitch, dc in next stitch**, repeat from * to ** until end of round. (36 stitches)
Round 4 - ch6, *dc in next 3 dc, ch3**, repeat from * to ** ten more times, dc in next two dc, ss into 3rd chain of beginning ch6. (12 lots of 3dc)
Round 5 - ss into ch3 space, ch4, 2tr, ch2, 3tr all into ch3 space, skip dc, dc into next dc, skip dc, 3hdc into ch3 space, skip dc, sc in next dc, skip dc, 3hdc in ch3 space, skip dc, dc in next dc, skip dc, *3tr, ch2, 3tr into ch3 space, skip dc, dc in next dc, skip dc, 3hdc in ch3 space, skip dc, sc in next dc, skip dc, 3hdc in ch3 space, skip dc, dc in next dc, skip dc**, repeat from * to ** to end of round, ss into top of beginning ch3.
Round 6 - ch3, dc in next 2 dc, *2dc, ch2, 2dc into ch3 space, dc in each dc**, repeat from * to ** to end of round, ss into top of beginning ch3.

If you would like to follow Elisabeth's Summer Blanket posts, then start here: https://elisabethandree.wordpress.com/2011/02/23/new-project-episode-1/

If you would like to take part in Yarn Corner's CAL for Kogo project, which we will be using this square for the month of June, then please request to join Yarn Corner on facebook here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/157893757611209/ and look in the file section for details on this CAL, with all blankets made and delivered to Melbourne charity Kogo to help out people in need. Or the links for the squares are also available in this Pinterest album: http://www.pinterest.com/twilighttaggers/yc-cal-for-kogo/

Ella Rose square pattern

ELLA ROSE SQUARE

The ELLA ROSE SQUARE is a square that I modified from here:
http://www.rukodelie.by/content/?id=6260
as I wanted a slightly different look.

The Ella Rose square is not hard to master even though the pattern may look detailed and/or complicated. I have written it up so that the round joins are in the ch2 corner space, so you don't have the join line showing.

YOU WILL NEED:

8ply yarn
4mm or 4.5mm hook

Pattern is written in US terms

SPECIAL STITCH:
DC BOBBLE (a bobble of two double crochet) - work half way through a double crochet and leave the loop on the hook, work half way through another double crochet (in the same stitch as the other double crochet), yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook.

Start with a magic loop, or ch4 and ss to make a circle.

R1 - 8sc in to loop, ss to close the round.
R2 - ch8 (counts as half of a dc bobble and ch5 corner space), *dc bobble in next sc from previous round), ch5**, repeat * to ** six times, dc in same space as ch8, ss to 3rd ch of beginning ch8, ss in to ch 5 space.
R3 - ch5 (counts as dc and ch2 corner space), 4dc in ch5 space, *ch1, sc in next ch5 space, ch1, (4dc, ch2, 4dc) in next ch5 space**, repeat * to ** twice, ch1, sc in next ch5 space, ch1, 3dc in next ch5 space, ss to 3rd chain of beginning ch5, ss in to ch5 space.
R4 - ch5, 2dc in ch5 space, *dc in next 4 dc, dc in next ch1 space, dc in next sc, dc in next ch1 space, dc in next 4 dc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 space**, repeat * to ** twice, dc in next 4 dc, dc in ch1 space, dc in next sc, dc in next ch1 space, dc in next 4 dc, dc in ch5 space, ss to 3rd chain of beginning ch5, ss in to ch2 space.

Repeat R4 for as many rounds as you want to make your square big enough.

Crochet Duck Sweater/Jumper Pattern

CROCHET DUCK SWEATER/JUMPER PATTERN AND PHOTO TUTORIAL

Ever wanted to turn these:

into these?

Then read on!

SKILL LEVEL: Easy to intermediate. You must be comfortable with increasing and decreasing.

TIME: Depends on how fast you crochet, but I can knock one of these out in less than half an hour.

MATERIALS:
* Plastic or rubber duck. I prefer to use the medium sized ones [ones used in my photo examples are 9cm in length x 7cm in height] but once you get familiar with the pattern, you can adjust it for other sized ducks.
* Size G - 4.0mm crochet hook
* 8ply acrylic yarn [the ducks tend to sink if you use wool or cotton yarn]
* 2x stitch markers
* Needle
* Scissors

GAUGE: Not important in this pattern as it's very much a "make it up as you go" sort of pattern.

STITCHES:

* This pattern is written in US terms.

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

2dc in each st = increasing

2sctog = decreasing with sc

2dctog = decreasing with dc

st = stitch

ss =slip stitch

NOTES:
* Please be aware that the results of this pattern can differ dramatically, depending on the size of the duck you have, the size of the yarn you use, how tight you normally crochet. I have to admit that every time I make a duck jumper, I usually just make it up but so many people have asked me for a pattern. So don't take this pattern as gospel. If you need to add more stitches in, or take them away, then do that. Or if you find another way of making the jumpers then do that instead.

PATTERN: This pattern works from the neck of the duck downwards and you will be working in the round. You will need to keep trying the jumper on the duck to make sure it fits after every row. 

Ch 16, ss into the 1st ch to make a circle. Check to make sure it fits over the duckie's head.

Row 1 - ch1, sc in each st, ss into that first ch1 

Row 2 - ch3, 2dc in each st, ss into that first ch3 

 Row 3 - Face the duck away from you and place your stitch marker at the edge of the duck's right wing. 

 

Now working in the back post of each stitch - ch3, 2dc in each st across to the beginning of his left wing and place second stitch marker here, 

then 2dc around the rest of the row but in the normal stitch not the back post, finishing up back at your first marker, ss into your beginning ch3. [You will see that crocheting like this makes a rib line over the front of the duck.]

Now this is where some winging [excuse the pun!] comes into it. You have to fill in the back part of the duck.

Row 4 - IMPORTANT: Turn your work - you're now going to be working in the opposite direction as before. Ch3, 2dctog, *1dc, 2dctog* to your second stitch marker, then 2sctog to end [this part is under the front part of the duck where you previously did the rib line], ss into ch3 

You will now begin decreasing for the rest of the pattern. You will be working on the underneath of the duck.

Row 5 - ch3, 2dctog to end, ss to ch3

Row 6 - Same as row 5. You can start to see the hole closing up.

Row 7 - You have a choice of doing the same as row 5 or sewing close the hole. By this stage the hole should be fairly small so it's up to you if you prefer to sew it up [like I do] or do another row of decreasing to close the hole.

FINISHED!!

Check out my Float Away Duck project from 2011.

Or check out my ducks at Yarn Corner's City Square project from 2012.

SHARING MY PATTERN:

Feel free to share my pattern on your blog/website/facebook etc. Also feel free to make and sell these little cuties etc. I don't mind. Just don't copy the pattern and say it's yours. Thanks all and happy hooking!